On the Bridge of Avignon

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It was our last day of our stay in Arles, but we decided to make it a side trip to the nearby city of Avignon.

The trains between the two cities run roughly hourly. I booked tickets online… the SNCF web site and app seem fairly mature, but one sticking point is they want names and birthdates for everybody travelling. This seems excessive. Please, I just want 4 return tickets for a 17 minute, 6.25 EUR journey. Just take my money, please.

(At the time of writing in January 2026, there’s just been two horrific train crashes in Spain, so yes, I can see the benefits of having full details of all passengers… and yet this detail is not required if simply buying tickets from a ticket machine at a station. Nor is it ever a consideration for city metro services.)

On the walk to the station we encountered streets closed to traffic, and witches hats and police tape everywhere. Then a police escort.

Then the first runners of the Arles 10 kilometre run, which was threading its way through the historic streets of the town. We cheered the leaders on, then kept walking.

The train was right on time, and pretty zippy, reaching 160 km/h, which seems to be the standard on a lot of non-high-speed-rail routes in France.

Avignon-Centre (which is separate to the TGV station outside town) is an impressive station, first opened in 1849 but the current building dates from 1866.

From there it’s a direct 15 minute walk to the Palais des Papes (Palace of the Popes). I guess when the Popes built that palace, they wanted convenient access to the station. (Joke.)

Built from 1252 onwards, this was the base of the Papacy for much of the 14th century.

Some of the gardens were closed for renovation work, but we explored the streets for a bit, and stepped inside the 12th century cathedral, before finding a restaurant for lunch.

Then we toured the palace itself, for which they equip you with an iPad-like device you can use to get a virtual view of each room you visit. Most of them are now devoid of furnishings, so you can get an idea of what they looked like.

They also gamify the tour – you can try to find special spots around the palace to win virtual prizes. No doubt this helps keep the kids interested.

There were also some quite modern art pieces inside, an interesting contrast to the building itself.

It took a couple of hours to wander round, eventually reaching a tower with a terrific view of the town, and some excellent gargoyles.

Exit down a big flight of stairs, and through the gift shop, naturally.

Next we headed to the historic Bridge of Avignon (aka Pont Saint-Bénézet). Or rather, the historic half bridge, built between 1177 and 1185 – but only four of the arches survive.

Nevertheless it’s a landmark, in no small part thanks to the song “Sur le Pont d’Avignon” (“On the Bridge of Avignon”), which a lot of people learn in their childhood years – though it’s not one that I remember.

It was getting late in the afternoon and we walked back to the station.

Outside the station I took a look at the tram line (more frequent than most in Melbourne, but with an early 21:30 finish on Sundays) and a huge bike parking facility which seems to be common in European cities.

The train back was a bit more crowded than the morning, but quick and easy.

Notable: the bike hooks in the carriage.

Back in Arles we walked along the river to our accommodation. It was just getting dark, but not clear enough for Van Gogh’s stars over the Rhône.

Instead, birds were swirling around in amazing patterns, known as a murmuration. It was worth a quick video.

It had been a fun day. Avignon had been fascinating to visit. Recommended if you’re ever in the neighbourhood.

Tomorrow we’d be packing up and heading across the border!